PJ and I had an unusually excellent trip experience visiting Puerto Rico from December 31, 2016 - January 4, 2017. The best part of the trip: the warmth, chatter, fun - and incredible hospitality - that always accompanies hanging around Pedro, Maga and the rest of the immediate Rossello family - but for this trip also getting acquainted with some of the extended family and friends-of-the-family - all delightful. Two other plus-plus elements: (1) being invited to attend Ricky's gubernatorial inauguration and some related events; and (2) finally seeing a bit of Puerto Rico and Old San Juan after years of conversations about it.
Here's what happened -
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| New Year's Eve in Old San Juan . . . |
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| . . . complete with "plena" musicians . . . |
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| . . . and some expert dancing . . . |
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| New Year's Eve with our little daughter, Old San Juan. |
Saturday, December 31 - PJ and I have easy travels and short layover (Houston) but learn that with time zone changes etc. it can still seem like a bit of a trip from Phoenix to San Juan; 6a departure, 4:45p arrival. Nice views of the island as we arrive, and Kerry and Luis are at the airport to meet us; we get our first look around as we drive out to Pedro and Maga's lovely place in Dorado (a bit west of San Juan). Great to catch up with P&M as always; also nice that Jay & Giselle & family (the three Gs) were there; then we settle into our quarters for the visit (a lovely home that we were sharing with K&L, made available by a family friend). Thoughtfully stocked refrigerator courtesy Maga - all quite welcoming. Back for dinner at P&M's place - all v good but I think we especially enjoyed the rice (pigeon peas!) and the plantains. Our entire group then boards the small bus, or large van, that we utilized for the duration, and the drivers take us into Old San Juan - a very fun New Year's Eve party at Johnny & Leticia's place; met Maria Christina, Alana, Andrea, John Francis - all just as warm and welcoming as can be (plus they arranged for "plena" musicians to entertain us!) We get some initial views of OSJ on the way to and from the party; perfect weather; eventually we make our way "home", getting to our place with 20 minutes to spare prior to midnight - at which time we watch a rather fine fireworks display from our balcony with K&L.
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| Early morning church service on Inauguration Day; this is upon arrival: Pedro with members of the press. |
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| A blessing for Ricky and Bea. |
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| At breakfast in the parish hall immediately following the church service. |
Sunday, January 1- K&L are out early to pick up coffee and breakfast sandwiches for us (from "KGB"); we then make our way over to P&M's to catch up with everyone; say hello to Ricky and also get a chance to meet Bea and Claudia - lots of chattering, then we all drive (I mean, are driven) over to some picturesque spot on the property where the Rossello family Christmas photo is taken (if a bit after Christmas). Back to P&M's for the loveliest lunch; we are joined by Luiso and Sonia, Luisra and Maria. Among the treats: a dish traditionally served in Puerto Rico at Christmas - several varieties of fillings, each wrapped in a banana leaf - quite good (even if the Rossello brothers themselves seemed rather unenthusiastic about it). Lots of talk on all sorts of topics as we sit around the dining table after finishing (and while things are being cleared away so efficiently); we of course were interested in catching up on some of the story lines around the gubernatorial race, plans for the inauguration and short-term thereafter; for some reason - the light, the atmosphere, who knows - it felt to me a lot like sitting around the dining table in Iowa 40 or 50 years ago after a home-prep'd meal and feeling the multi-generation conversation flow - hard to articulate that but it is a fine feeling. Eventually we walk the grounds a bit, spend some time in the "Lazy River" area. We meet Manny & Kristen & Isabella. Quick change back at our "home", then our driver takes the four of us through heavy traffic into OSJ (we finally walk the last couple blocks) - we meet Manny & Kristen for dinner - good food/drink and conversation but the most memorable part was just all the laughs.
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Upon arrival at the Capitol - and prior to Ricky's inauguration - a swearing-in ceremony for members of PR"s House of Representatives. |
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Waiting for the postmaster ceremony to commence . . . many in attendance take advantage of an opportunity for a photo with P&M. |
Monday, January 2 - bright and early start - this is Inauguration Day! - full police escort this time as our group is taken to church for the day's first event - press, photographers active (all this is new to PJ and me course). A very nice ceremony, including the celebrant blessing Ricky and Bea; musicians livelier than what we normally see in church, fun to listen to. They served breakfast to all of us in the parish hall immediately after - enjoyed the PR coffee. Another escorted trip to the capitol building. We are taken up via a small elevator to chambers outside the House of Representatives - an amusing part was the tiny elevator car could only convey a handful of us, and naturally it was those of us that nobody knew and stopped for photos etc. who were available to go up the elevator first - meaning PJ, I and a few others enter these chambers and start getting introduced around - to the mayor of San Juan, the representative from the Dominican Republic, etc. - everyone very kind even when dealing with unknown non-entities. On we proceed into the House of Representatives, where the swearing-in ceremony takes place for the new members - this actually was kind of neat, typically they'd have a family member or two in tow, getting elected is an accomplishment no matter how you look at the world of politics.
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| In our front-row seats on the Capitol steps, waiting for the inauguration ceremonies to begin. |
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| Governor Ricky is sworn in. |
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| A portion of the large-enthusiastic crowd . . . Atlantic Ocean in background. |
Next we move to a different area in the capitol building - some traditional ceremony involving the local postmaster -
commemorative postmark or something? The area was quite warm/muggy. Press. Photographers. Nonstop line of people wanting to say hello to, and have their picture taken with, Pedro (and Maga) - the evident warmth toward them was impressive to see. But it also required tremendous energy by P&M (who clearly are pros). Delays. Little episodes such as: when time to go to the men's room - security escorts me there (stuff I'm not used to, to say the least). Security guys chase down water bottles for us, yay. Then Ricky, Bea and Claudia arrive and the postmaster ceremony proceeds.
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| Governor Ricky's inaugural address. |
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Ricky and Bea's daughter very well behaved, though she became a touch uneasy when the 21-gun salute (or however many) went off. Ricky picked her up; photographers pounced; PJ ends up in a nice photo (I end up blocked by the Guv'nor). |
Now it's time for the formal inauguration ceremony - a stand has been set up on the Capitol steps - rather amazing view out over the Atlantic Ocean from where we sit toward the end of the family grouping in front row. Getting to those seats involved a bit of a gauntlet run - K&L had warned of the seemingly simple rule of just keeping up with the security guys as we flow through crowds, photographers, etc. Enthusiastic crowd. Full sun on an 85 degree day; breeze generally quite nice but no one complained the few times that a cloud passed overhead. Invocations, presentation of the colors, music, the actual swearing-in. Ricky's speech - in Spanish - seems very well received. Pedro and Ricky take the traditional walk to the governor's mansion - this on a very warm afternoon after so much activity already. The rest of us go to the mansion via our van.
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| At the Governor's Mansion. |
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| Just hanging out at La Forteleza. |
The mansion - La Forteleza - surprised us, we had no idea of the history behind this place (
originally a fort; oldest executive mansion in use in the western hemisphere, etc.). The physical site - overlooking the harbor - is pretty incredible. Not to mention the building itself. On arrival - a fine lunch - this was timely and thoughtful, we all were quite ready to rest a bit, and get a bite to eat (the staff did a lovely job with that). Then Maga led the family around for a most interesting tour of the mansion - fun and helpful to see where P&M did their work during the time P served as governor; enjoyed seeing the living quarters, including where Luis had spent some time way back when. Many staffers there are holdovers from the days when P&M lived there - it was neat to see how pleased they were to have Rossellos returning. Then we are taken back to Dorado for hair/makeup sessions (girls) and naps (me and possibly Luis).
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| La Forteleza does indeed offer some fine views. |
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| At dinner - evening of Inauguration Day. |
At night - the dinner celebrating the inauguration - our drivers get us back into OSJ in quick order. We see many faces now familiar after a couple days; and meet some additional family/friends. Good food; a few speeches (including Ricky's); live music courtesy of several different performers (including a guy with quite a nice voice doing a version of "
My Way," associated with Pedro as we learn!) The event was intentionally a bit restrained given the island's current fiscal situation - but celebratory to be sure! Afterward, a group of 10 of us are driven over to the lovely Vanderbilt Hotel for a nightcap. Eventually we are driven home; a 20-hour day of memorable moments. [Ricky - and Manny, among others - head to Washington DC on 3a flight for introduction of statehood legislation.]
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| In our places and ready for the banquet . . . |
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| At the banquet: Kerry, Ricky, Luis . . . |
Tuesday, January 3 - we (K&L, PJ and me) organize for our tourist-day, and are driven over to P&M's; Jay & Giselle & family are there and in the midst of packing to head home. Our stated plan was for the four of us to go out for breakfast and then proceed into Old San Juan. But we linger - Pedro, we learn, makes a quite excellent cup of coffee; Maga puts together a fine little breakfast - all of a sudden we have settled in to enjoy another round of warm conversation and hospitality, and no hurry to leave - very pleasant. Finally we say goodbyes to all - glad a March rendezvous in Phoenix is on the calendar! - and our driver takes us to OSJ.
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| We learn that - properly prepared - a pina colada can be a fine thing. El Convento, Old San Juan. |
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| Looking at the governor's mansion from outside in. Old San Juan. |
My ignorance regarding San Juan, and Puerto Rico in general, is near-flawless. Wandering around - and looking at maps on the phone - we start to get a feel for why the area was so important to the Spanish - a great harbor (sheltered from the ocean, defensible against invaders), an island perched on the eastern edge of the Caribbean. Anyway, the weather is lovely and we wander the narrow streets and old buildings - had no idea it was
this old - Columbus on second voyage, etc. A place named "El Convento" looks pretty appealing; we ask the bartender to describe the pina colada - the surprising part was that it tasted even better than it looked (and it was after noon by the time we ordered, I think). We wander through shops, check out the scenery. Super-compact. Lunch; we are introduced to mofongo, among other treats - much enjoyed. We are wondering in the area of La Fortaleza - getting the view from the street, interesting after yesterday's visit and tour.
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| Arriving at El Morro. |
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| Overlooking Atlantic Ocean . . . we learn that the cannon were maneuvered on these tracks . . . |
As the afternoon proceeds we visit a huge fort named "El Morro" - the Spanish started building it in 1539 and expansion continued for centuries - this is on a finger of land immediately adjacent to Old San Juan - late afternoon light makes everything look better - the setting on the Atlantic Ocean is pretty wonderful but also there are views back to OSJ and over to the harbor - we much enjoyed wandering, would happily go back for a closer look (though that applies to everything we did on the entire visit). Our drivers then whoosh us out of the downtown congestion and drop us off at the Hilton. Since I never seem to get to the Atlantic coast, K and I make sure to walk down into the water for a touch. Mojitos at the outdoor bar overlooking the Atlantic; it's fun to hear Luis recall visiting this hotel as a child with his grandparents. Eventually we change clothes - meet Tico/Eva and Kristen/Isabella - who are in a salsa class while I fussed with some details on our flight; dinner; laughs!; then our driver takes us home. Had a bite of the quite-wonderful cake that the mansion staff had prepared for the Rossellos (and that ended up in our refrigerator, luckily); a glass of wine; conversation into the early morning.
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We learn that these watch towers are iconic PR scenery at this point . . . and that the non-native iguanas are not well beloved. |
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| Tourists on a lovely afternoon at El Morro. |
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| Fifteen Thirty Nine!! |
Wednesday, January 4 - our alarm goes off at 3:45a (or 12:45a Phoenix time - even after a few days on the road that seemed a little early). We say our goodbyes to K&L - really fun to share this experience with the two of them - our drivers get us to the airport (flashing lights for two nobodies!) Trip was pretty easy, not that I was awake for much of it; we did have a two-hour delay in Houston but that gave us a chance to sit down for a bite. (Though the mallorca-ham-cheese treats that we took from the fridge onto the plane did get us all the way to Houston in good shape!) Back at the house by about 5:15p.
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| K 'n me in the Atlantic Ocean. Just barely. |
Very appreciative of a unique trip and pretty much overwhelming hospitality.
No question that we would love to return, see more, spend more time with our hosts.
The best of luck to know people like this, experience things like this.
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