Evolution of hiking gear

One last post from our recent Flagstaff hike: I couldn't help notice the changes in hiking gear over a 20-year period, as modeled by my pretty little wife:

2009: hiking socks and hiking boots
1989: white socks and gym shoes

2009: pants with high-tech moisture-wicking fabric; legs zip off to convert to shorts as needed
1989: standard-issue sweat pants

2009: sunglasses
1989: squint as needed

2009: digitAL camera
1989: heavyweight SLR (not shown because it was in use)

2009: high-tech hiking poles
1989: big stick found randomly on the trail

2009: Camelbak (hydration system)
1989: Kidonback (dead weight)

Looked something like a Christmas tree

Noticed this going up the trail from Lockett's Meadow - interesting light, fresh leaf drop from aspens, etc. Looks very much like a nicely-decorated Christmas tree (at least if you click/enlarge the photos).

Lockett's Meadow 2009 (20th anniversary)

Patricia and I took a quick but most fun trip up to Flagstaff on Saturday, October 17-18. Main purpose was to hike the trail from Lockett's Meadow up to the Inner Basin. It was our first time on this trail since 2005 (reported here). We were pretty late in the season, but the weather was unseasonably warm in Phoenix, so temperatures were perfect for this up in Flagstaff.

The hike was delightful as always. Quite a few hikers, gorgeous day, brilliant colors at the trailhead and the lower part of the trail, more leaves had dropped as we approached the 10,000 foot level. We took our time, and took lots of photos. Sat in the meadow a bit after the hike and sipped a Chimay (white) and glass of wine. This is really a wonderful area and should not be taken for granted.

Something else interesting was that we have never walked downtown Flagstaff on any of our visits there over these two decades +. This was fun; ended up sipping and eating at a place named Cuvee 928 - excellent. Fun crowd. And enjoyed watching the games.

I later realized that this is the 20th anniversary of our first trip to Lockett's Meadow. That time we had five quite young kids in tow - young enough that for big chunks of the hike I was carrying Patrick, and Patricia was carrying Paul Jr. N, C, K trudged along on their own just fine. I'd guesstimate we've hiked the trail about half of those 20 years.

And will be back.

Quebec (September 21-24)

As much as we enjoyed Montreal, our time in Quebec City was better. We took a rental car and arrived in the evening of Monday, September 21. (After some challenging road construction.) Some cornfields and agriculture north of Montreal; we were running alongside the north side of the St. Lawrence River with occasional views of the water; beautiful wooded country as nearing Quebec.

Quebec City (I'll just refer to it as Quebec from here on) is simply different. The city had celebrated its 400th anniversary a couple years ago - which is remarkable for North America. I read that it's the only walled city in North America. We had been looking forward to it because it's just that much more remote than Montreal; plus my imagination was stimulated by this Willa Cather book.

We were momentarily a bit put off on arrival - unexpected tourist concentration in the area of our hotel. And at first blush some of the old architecture almost feels Disneyfied (even if it's real). And some street performers are just committing crimes against music - with amplifiers. But we got over that quickly and I barely recall any of those distractions. We learned that by going just a bit farther afield, could bypass the bigger tourist concentrations, and the Disney effect was lost in a beautiful city that just exudes a most interesting history.

So we checked into the Auberge Place d'Armes upon arrival - had a great location across from the Chateau Frontenac. This is in the upper portion of old city (Vieux Quebec). Given lateness of the hour, we ate dinner at the hotel restaurant. It was good, but not up to the standards of our other dinners on this trip. Then we were upgraded to a much larger room due to some water dripping into our bathroom.

We ran into consistently excellent food the rest of the visit. French heritage or whatever, there is a shared assumption that food quality and the dining experience matter a great deal. Have to hand it to the French. Complex, sophisticated. Unhurried. Had dinner two evenings at L'Echaude - they had two lights-out entrees: a duck dish with duck gizzards, mushrooms, onions, reduction, bok choy etc.; and black cod with snail stew and leeks. Two lunches at La Brigantine - the table d'hote, including lamb shanks, a veal dish and a chicken sandwich that's difficult to even place in the same classification as what I normally think of as a chicken sandwich. And, of course, soup, dessert, coffee, a local wine.

We walked the city constantly. The weather was cloudy and rainy for a good portion of the time - but our last round of REI shopping left us well protected, and we never were limited by the weather. Sunny on the last day.

Visited the site of the famous battle on the Plains of Abraham; also walked around the Citadel - this is the highest point in town (Cap Diamante - where Cecile and Jacques went sledding). This is the battle that put the British into control of the area, for all practical purposes.

Visited interesting churches, as discussed in the preceding post.

Walked through the Chateau Frontenac, but lacked the patience to take the guided tour. We did spent lots of time on the Promenade of the Governors, and took every chance to look out over the St. Lawrence River.

The town is full of monuments and parks. Beautiful architecture; interesting old houses; narrow streets; hilly everywhere. We enjoyed walking into the lower town. And walking some more. French atmosphere more pronounced than Montreal - some folks with little or no English at all. Got to really enjoy the buzz of French conversation, the fun of working our way through the menus, etc.

Can't wait to get back.

Montreal - Quebec: old churches

As we walked the old areas of Montreal and Quebec, we much enjoyed visiting some impressive old Catholic churches.

Here are the ones we visited, in order:

1. St. Patrick's Basilica (top three photos) - we read this opened in 1847, focused (as you might guess) on the Irish immigrants (who apparently were flooding Canada as well as the US). It is "Gothic Revival." We encountered this church while on our very long walk on Sunday 9/20. We saw several very beautiful churches, but the experience here was our favorite.

Our timing was pure luck - encountered the last half of a Latin Mass. One forgets how solemn those old phrases sound (especially compared to the prosaic (or worse) stuff now ascendant) -- fiat voluntas tua; sed libera nos a malo; Corpus Christi; Agnus Dei. Etc. Also, it was a sunny day and the Gothic style permitted the place to be absolutely flooded with light. And neat artwork of the North American martyrs (Isaac Jogues et al). Old copper roof staining the exterior walls. So this was delightful.

2. Notre Dame Basilica (Montreal) (photos four through nine counting from the top) - the wikipedia article has a good summary: "The church's Gothic Revival architecture is among the most dramatic in the world; its interior is grand and colorful, its ceiling is colored deep blue and decorated with golden stars, and the rest of the sanctuary is a polychrome of blues, azures, reds, purples, silver, and gold. It is filled with hundreds of intricate wooden carvings and several religious statues. Unusual for a church, the stained glass windows along the walls of the sanctuary do not depict biblical scenes, but rather scenes from the religious history of Montreal." It was a sunny day, but somewhat dark inside. I am a big fan of the scenes of the French church in Canada. This place packs in the tourists. There is a wedding chapel in the back - quite large; unfortunately destroyed by fire in the 20th century and restored with hideous 20th century artwork.

The basilica was just a block or two from our hotel so we had the pleasure of walking around it from all different directions at all different times of day and night.

3. Notre-Dame-des-Victoires Church (second- and third-last photos) - this one is in the Place-Royale, a great spot in old Quebec. Sits across from a small bust of Louis XIV, who supposedly chipped in a few louis in support of the project. It was built way back in 1688, with some connection to an earlier building that Samuel Champlain put up. Much smaller than the other churches mentioned here. We read that it is a restoration - the old church was leveled by British cannon balls during the famous "Plains of Abraham" battle in 1759. So how neat is all that? The square is very picturesque; the artists focusing on the tourist trade do charming little paintings of snow scenes with children enjoying winter in the Place-Royale. Maybe 10 minutes from our hotel, we walked past it constantly.

4. Notre Dame Quebec (last photo) - stopped here on our last morning in Quebec City. Less than a block from our hotel so we had walked by numerous times. Church for the very oldest parish in North America; original building from 1647. This also is a restoration (another victim of British cannon in 1759, and then it burned down again in 1922); so it looks relatively new. Interesting write-ups inside about the resentment toward the "Protestant conquerors," who eventually supported rebuilding after 1759. This is where several governors of New France are buried. We liked it.