[As always - click on any photo to enlarge all.]
Tuesday-Thursday 22-24 May 2018
PJ, CPG and I gathered at the Phoenix airport in the afternoon of 22 May; our flight departed around 5p or so. Ten hours to London; “premium” economy worked just fine; unremarkable trip (which is good); probably slept two continuous hours and then a bit of dozing here and there. Three-hour layover in London (PJ’s first visit to Europe!); we spend time in one of the lounges courtesy cardholder CPG.
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| Random travel views (it was entirely pleasant (including my sleep aid)). |
As PJ and I board the London-Bangalore leg, and to our pleasant surprise, British Airways upgrades us to business class. No idea why this happened; noticeably better than the alternative. Another 10-hour leg; I think our sleep pattern was similar to the first leg; I much enjoyed watching the map that shows the plane’s progress – we are flying over exotic-magical places for our very first time, after all. And then – after almost exactly 24 hours of travel (and 23 May slipping away enroute) – we’re at our highly-anticipated destination. Quick passage through customs – with arrival at about 5:30a (24 May), the airport was mostly empty.
| Hello, Bangalore! |
As we progress into the city – we also get our first glimpse of Bangalore traffic – just google search terms like “Bangalore traffic jam” for details – it’s famously congested to say the least. And to novice travelers like us – looking through the windshield seemed like watching a video game, or a movie chase scene – endlessly entertaining. Will post separately about "on the streets/roads in India."
| After breakfast - we officially initiate OJ Plex with a 5 Crowns battle. |
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| Pals get right down to playing games. (Note our banana-mango supply on table at back.) |
The day was lightly scheduled; we do some shopping at a Western-style mall (meaning the ladies shop around while Sreedhar, Vihaan, CPG and me laze around). We inspect a beef-less McDonald’s, among other points of interest. Snacks in the food court; then back to OJ Plex. It being the 38th wedding anniversary for PJ and me, we were treated to a rather amazing dinner at Ssaffron restaurant (“Indian fine dining”) at the Shangri-la Hotel – couldn’t have been more thoughtful, we felt quite lucky to be treated so well. We succeeded in staying up all day (though I was getting schweepy as we waited in the hotel lobby for our Uber after dinner); went to bed perhaps 11a Phoenix time (11:30p Bangalore time) – but somehow the jet lag didn’t kick in, and Phoenix scheduling already was entirely behind us.
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| How could our 38th wedding anniversary have been nicer? |
Friday 25 May 2018
We were much looking forward to meeting Dharma’s maternal grandmother (referred to as ajii) – pretty obviously a close connection for Dharma – a blessing for us to have the opportunity to meet an important person from that generation. (Dharma’s maternal grandfather – well-known and widely-respected – formerly a mayor of Bangalore – had passed away in 2011.) Grateful city representatives had made available opportunities to grandfather over the years but he had turned them down, just choosing to reside in his house on a fairly good-sized lot in Bangalore; the lot since has been subdivided to accommodate two additional homes (so I’ll call it a “compound”) – all three homes currently are occupied by Dharma’s uncles and their families – including of course her ajii, who remains in the home where she lived with her husband – so naturally this was first among our family visits.
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| First temple visit. |
But a most interesting stop on the way over – a very old temple (Sri Gavi Gangadhareshwara Swamy Temple) hewn into a cave is located fairly close to the compound, so Sreedhar took us there. We learned a bit of temple etiquette (shoes off, respectful tones, sit just a bit upon leaving the temple proper (a quiet-optimal moment for prayer)); we were struck by the peaceful solemnity – this temple dates back over 500 years I believe, and was built by Bangalore’s founder. No pictures inside and yes, walking the passageway behind the deity was occasionally a bit claustrophobic. Sreedhar, Janu and Dharma explain things for a few minutes outside, a nice experience.
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| Temple exterior scenes . . . |
There is a lovely park almost adjacent to this cave-temple – a spot where Dharma and family would have visited over the years – we walk the grounds a bit, view the temple there. We learn that snakes (OK, carvings of snakes) often guard temples.
| Temple #2; with guardian snakes. |
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| The machete action was a bit unnerving, but the fresh coconut water was a real treat. |
Now we are back to the house and are officially introduced around to a large group of family members – our first visit to the extended family – the warm hospitality is hard to describe – entirely palpable. Four generations represented. And we finally have our chance to meet ajii!
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| What a pleasure to meet ajii . . . |
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| . . . and these folks! |
We see the room where grandfather worked – books, awards, mementos, too many to store. In short order we have our first exposure to receiving a meal in these family settings – later I’ll write more generally about this family dining experience but for now will just state that the amount of work that went into this; the variety of dishes presented; the intensely flavorful taste profiles throughout; the cheerful courtesy as additional servings are offered (if not insisted upon) – we loved it.
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| An amazing meal - thanks mostly to this fine crew. |
Then an opportunity for a longer conversation with ajii, and Dharma translates some of her delightful stories – this is quite wonderful. She presents PJ and me with lovely shawls and gives us her blessing – yes I’m pretty sure this was a blessed moment. Ajii warm, high-energy, impressive.
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| Ajii with a mixture of funny stories and heartfelt advice and recollections. Dharma as translator. We won't forget this afternoon. |
| House #2 - lots of laughs here, such a nice visit. |
We then spend some delightful time at each of the other two homes in the compound – with rain continuing, we appreciated borrowed umbrellas – the same unrelenting courtesy – coffee, snacks, conversation, warmth – lovely acknowledgements of C&D’s wedding. These family members are highly educated, successful professionals; even better everyone, without exception, is so warm and courteous to we strangers. It’s a good feeling.
| House #3 - great conversation and really thoughtful treats (including pakora!) |
Uber takes us home through the rain. It was a fine day.
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| Just another spot of Bangalore traffic . . . |
Saturday 26 May 2018
Every morning at OJ Plex commenced with an interesting breakfast – often Indian (idli (or dosa) and sambar was a favorite); sometimes prepared by Janu and Dharma, sometimes ordered in (carry-in prices were so reasonable). Janu made a delicious upma one of the first mornings. On a few mornings we had eggs for a change of pace. PJ did a good job keeping up with the laundry (getting the clothes dry was a challenge, however).
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| We were well taken care of (if not outright spoiled). |
Breakfast was always accompanied by coffee – small cups – with generous amounts of milk and sugar; I have this memory of Janu or Dharma gliding up offering a fresh coffee just when we were ready for one. Prior to this trip it was black-coffee-only for me, but I quickly became used to the Indian style (and it took about a week after our return for me to get reoriented to black coffee). Spicy donuts. This was a nice part of the day. Sreedhar often would arrive during this time, often bringing supplies for us.
| Watching the previous night's game felt like looking back in time. |
Also at OJ Plex – by the time we were eating breakfast, often an NBA playoff game (taking place the night before back in the US – it was like looking back in time) would be entering the fourth quarter – perfect timing for us to keep up with the games while not burning too much time on it. The Indian broadcasts were fun to hear, also the Indian post-game.
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| Jenga received a lot of use. |
Also at OJ Plex on a daily basis – Vihaan brought the energy. PJ and he got along quite fine; among other things he showed fine aptitude with a coloring app on her iPad. Jenga games – or just building things with the Jenga blocks. His fire truck, and transformer/car. Etc.
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| Arriving at the Metro station after our first auto rickshaw ride - fun. |
This day was pretty lightly scheduled. We took our first auto rickshaw trip – to the metro (quite new, in great condition, and apparently quite popular judging from our crowded car!) – then a short walk to some shops in a commercial area, I’ll call it MG Road area. From there we walked through some interesting/nice areas, and had lunch at a place called Smokehouse Deli – western food, they did a very nice job. En route we ran across the CSC local headquarters, in a neighborhood with various other Christian institutions (including a school Sreedhar had attended (St. George's, I believe)). After lunch we visited a high-end mall and wandered there just a bit; then made our way back to OJ Plex. Had a quiet hour or two; several of us napped a bit.
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| CSC building; Sreedhar's school; Metro scenes. |
In the evening: a lovely visit to Dharma’s aunt’s home – another amazing meal – these folks were pretty familiar with the US because of visits (one had been one of the first in the family to take a position in the US – at a university in the southeast) and a son currently practices medicine in Duluth. Dharma had brought along wedding photos; they reciprocated with some pretty amazing wedding albums of their own.
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| This was a lovely home; three generations living together; per usual on this trip - amazing food and hospitality. |
Ajii somehow got herself over to this home and it was very fine to see her again. And she brought along a group of family photos - a great experience going through those together. Fun conversations all evening. Somehow I'm not finding a full group photo so will post it later. After: Uber back to OJ Plex.
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| Reviewing Ajii's treasure trove of pictures; also checking out our host's amazing wedding album. |
Sunday 27 May 2018
Breakfast at OJ Plex; then several of our group go to a local grocery store for some supplies (they were charged with bringing a dish to the day’s potluck gathering). Which gathering commenced a bit before noon at a house not too far from OJ Plex (though our Uber driver became frustrated, we were passing through a neighborhood I believe was referred to as “Little Pakistan” with a slightly incorrect address).
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| Scenes from a Sunday gathering (four generations on left) |
This was quite an excellent Sunday gathering – it included relatives on Sreedhar’s side of the family – including his mother (ajii) and three sisters, and so many more - another very important group to meet and get to know. Great turnout of entirely friendly folks. Many with quite excellent command of English. Four generations represented. I much enjoyed the sounds of the day – constant multiple conversations being conducted in English or Kannada or both; children playing or occasionally crying a bit; cooking, food preparation, food service – just great. It reminded me of the sounds of those 1960s gatherings up on the hill farm in St. Joe.
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| Just a great group of folks. |
The food – delightful Indian dishes – our first time being served on a banana leaf – interesting, tasty stuff. After: one of Sreedhar’s sisters is assembling a betel leaf chaw for us – I still don’t know quite what was in the filling, or what effect if any this has – but we chewed away, found the taste quite pleasant, this was all very relaxing. Coffee/chai is served later; also snacks; on it goes!
| An amazing feast. With many more treats to follow. |
In addition to all the talking: we played games. A lot. We introduced “Old Maid” to the group – using two decks of cards – this was entertaining as always, works well with large groups, those moments among the finalists are always funny.
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| Sreedhar and his sister (who is the expert at putting together our betel-leaf-chew, among other talents). |
Next: they have a traditional game where two types of beans are mixed into a large pot of rice grains – each player has 30 seconds to pick as many of the designated bean type out of the rice as possible – no rice-mess allowed! – this moves fast and was quite fun (plus one can imagine this being played in traditional villages going way back – fun, and nothing to purchase!).
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| Upper left: Janu is a blur in her 30-second stint; upper right: running a Housie game; in bottom photos, the Housie players are concentrating so very hard . . . |
Perhaps not our fastest bean-picker - but certainly our cutest:
Then everyone played “Housie” – a variant of bingo – this was very fun, there was a 10 rupee buy-in so everyone had something at stake; they dream up various winning combinations and betting patterns – the time flew by, the laughing and jabbering never faltered.
Now it’s getting late; many had work the next day and needed to depart; they do a great job of lining up the group, and various subgroups, for photos; our Uber is on its way. But wait! After seven-plus hours we are prevailed upon (and happily agree) to cancel our ride. The Old Maid game moves out to the front yard for those who could stay; while Chris, our host and I “took a walk” to an Indian liquor store so that we could have a small beer tasting. Our walk was an interesting experience in its own right – a long line of liquor purchasers, fortunately a short line for beer buyers. Back to the house; of course another delicious round of food; we compare notes during our impromptu beer tasting and discuss all sorts of things, very pleasant.
| A successful beer tasting to finish off a delightful day . . . |
Things eventually do wrap up and our Uber arrives a little after 10p.
A fun day.
Monday 28 May 2018
Another relatively lightly scheduled day – the main goals were to visit some shopping areas and prepare for tomorrow’s road trip. After breakfast and some doings at OJ Plex, we work our way toward lunch – at an Asian restaurant (Misu) – the place does a really nice job.
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| You can find anything in this shopping district. So fun just to look around. |
Then onto the shopping area – I’ll call it “Commercial Street” – this is where Dharma, Janu, Sreedhar did all of the shopping for wedding finery. The area was entirely amazing – every kind of shop – crowded, narrow streets – so much to look at! (That includes the shoppers, shopkeepers, traffic, hangers-on – as well as the shops themselves.) Chris & Dharma were looking for some accent pillows and were quite successful. Some clothes-shopping also took place. I didn’t get at all tired of just looking around.
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| Pillow-cover-shopping is the main event, but chess moves run alongside. |
Chris and I had a fine mango lassi; Sreedhar bought a tasty ear of roasted corn for Vihaan. Encountered a few persistent beggars (our first of the trip).
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| PJ did a nice job of capturing some of the street scenes! |
At day’s end we had some challenges arranging an Uber so ended up with a more adventurous approach: jumped into auto rickshaws to the (very crowded) metro, then a short Uber ride from the metro station – worked fine. Dharma and Sreedhar then were spending a ton of time and effort finding a car and driver for our multi-day road trip starting tomorrow morning – lots of work on their part but, as we shall see, it turned out beautifully.
Also back at OJ Plex, Chris and I had some tea; there was a 5 Crowns game and some chatting.

































































