Visiting southern India - arrival through 28 May (post #2 of several)

[This post, with a few others (to come), covers day-by-day activities.]  [Properly-spelled names of folks we visited also "to come".]

[As always - click on any photo to enlarge all.]

Tuesday-Thursday 22-24 May 2018

PJ, CPG and I gathered at the Phoenix airport in the afternoon of 22 May; our flight departed around 5p or so.  Ten hours to London; “premium” economy worked just fine; unremarkable trip (which is good); probably slept two continuous hours and then a bit of dozing here and there.  Three-hour layover in London (PJ’s first visit to Europe!); we spend time in one of the lounges courtesy cardholder CPG.

Random travel views (it was entirely pleasant (including my sleep aid)).

As PJ and I board the London-Bangalore leg, and to our pleasant surprise, British Airways upgrades us to business class.  No idea why this happened; noticeably better than the alternative.  Another 10-hour leg; I think our sleep pattern was similar to the first leg; I much enjoyed watching the map that shows the plane’s progress – we are flying over exotic-magical places for our very first time, after all.  And then – after almost exactly 24 hours of travel (and 23 May slipping away enroute) – we’re at our highly-anticipated destination.  Quick passage through customs – with arrival at about 5:30a (24 May), the airport was mostly empty.

Hello, Bangalore!

Dharma and Sreedhar were there to pick us up – with driver and SUV (we had quite a bit of luggage) – as with every step of the way, every detail was taken care of.  We say hello, check in with some folks back in the US, and (after PJ tries to jump in on the driver’s side – OK it's time to get used to driving on the opposite side of the road), we’re on our way.  As we depart the airport – our first sighting of “mayflower” trees – in bloom and gorgeous throughout our visit.

As we progress into the city – we also get our first glimpse of Bangalore traffic – just google search terms like “Bangalore traffic jam” for details – it’s famously congested to say the least.  And to novice travelers like us – looking through the windshield seemed like watching a video game, or a movie chase scene – endlessly entertaining.  Will post separately about "on the streets/roads in India."

After breakfast - we officially initiate OJ Plex with a 5 Crowns battle.

CPG had found an Airbnb-style place pretty conveniently located to Sreedhar’s place – “OJ Plex” – this ended up suiting us perfectly.  We eventually arrive there and check out the place, get settled in, say hello to Janu, and meet Vihaan!  Janu and Dharma put together a fine breakfast for us.  Mangos and small bananas are there for us – from a relative’s farm (thoughtful!) – depth of flavor = marvelous.

Pals get right down to playing games.  (Note our banana-mango supply on table at back.)

The day was lightly scheduled; we do some shopping at a Western-style mall (meaning the ladies shop around while Sreedhar, Vihaan, CPG and me laze around).  We inspect a beef-less McDonald’s, among other points of interest.  Snacks in the food court; then back to OJ Plex.  It being the 38th wedding anniversary for PJ and me, we were treated to a rather amazing dinner at Ssaffron restaurant (“Indian fine dining”) at the Shangri-la Hotel – couldn’t have been more thoughtful, we felt quite lucky to be treated so well.  We succeeded in staying up all day (though I was getting schweepy as we waited in the hotel lobby for our Uber after dinner); went to bed perhaps 11a Phoenix time (11:30p Bangalore time) – but somehow the jet lag didn’t kick in, and Phoenix scheduling already was entirely behind us.

How could our 38th wedding anniversary have been nicer?

Friday 25 May 2018

We were much looking forward to meeting Dharma’s maternal grandmother (referred to as ajii) – pretty obviously a close connection for Dharma – a blessing for us to have the opportunity to meet an important person from that generation.  (Dharma’s maternal grandfather – well-known and widely-respected – formerly a mayor of Bangalore – had passed away in 2011.)  Grateful city representatives had made available opportunities to grandfather over the years but he had turned them down, just choosing to reside in his house on a fairly good-sized lot in Bangalore; the lot since has been subdivided to accommodate two additional homes (so I’ll call it a “compound”) – all three homes currently are occupied by Dharma’s uncles and their families – including of course her ajii, who remains in the home where she lived with her husband – so naturally this was first among our family visits.

First temple visit. 

But a most interesting stop on the way over – a very old temple (Sri Gavi Gangadhareshwara Swamy Temple) hewn into a cave is located fairly close to the compound, so Sreedhar took us there.  We learned a bit of temple etiquette (shoes off, respectful tones, sit just a bit upon leaving the temple proper (a quiet-optimal moment for prayer)); we were struck by the peaceful solemnity – this temple dates back over 500 years I believe, and was built by Bangalore’s founder.  No pictures inside and yes, walking the passageway behind the deity was occasionally a bit claustrophobic.  Sreedhar, Janu and Dharma explain things for a few minutes outside, a nice experience.

Temple exterior scenes . . . 

There is a lovely park almost adjacent to this cave-temple – a spot where Dharma and family would have visited over the years – we walk the grounds a bit, view the temple there. We learn that snakes (OK, carvings of snakes) often guard temples.

Temple #2; with guardian snakes.

Then a short walk up a street, such a familiar street for the family, and we arrive at the compound.  An initial round of hellos; a vendor is offering coconut water (so Sreedhar treats us to this, a new taste for me); then a short walk up the street hoping to see another temple before it closes for mid-day (we’re a touch late).

The machete action was a bit unnerving, but the fresh coconut water was a real treat.

Now we are back to the house and are officially introduced around to a large group of family members – our first visit to the extended family – the warm hospitality is hard to describe – entirely palpable.  Four generations represented.  And we finally have our chance to meet ajii!

What a pleasure to meet ajii . . .

. . . and these folks!

We see the room where grandfather worked – books, awards, mementos, too many to store.  In short order we have our first exposure to receiving a meal in these family settings – later I’ll write more generally about this family dining experience but for now will just state that the amount of work that went into this; the variety of dishes presented; the intensely flavorful taste profiles throughout; the cheerful courtesy as additional servings are offered (if not insisted upon) – we loved it.

An amazing meal - thanks mostly to this fine crew.

Then an opportunity for a longer conversation with ajii, and Dharma translates some of her delightful stories – this is quite wonderful.  She presents PJ and me with lovely shawls and gives us her blessing – yes I’m pretty sure this was a blessed moment.  Ajii warm, high-energy, impressive.

Ajii with a mixture of funny stories and heartfelt advice and recollections.
Dharma as translator.  We won't forget this afternoon.

After:  conversations continue with other family members.  Rainy afternoon (occasionally quite the deluge) which added to the atmosphere in the home; Sreedhar advises that we are a week or two ahead of the commencement of the rainy season (so rain is not unusual at this time).

House #2 - lots of laughs here, such a nice visit.

We then spend some delightful time at each of the other two homes in the compound – with rain continuing, we appreciated borrowed umbrellas – the same unrelenting courtesy – coffee, snacks, conversation, warmth – lovely acknowledgements of C&D’s wedding.  These family members are highly educated, successful professionals; even better everyone, without exception, is so warm and courteous to we strangers.  It’s a good feeling.

House #3 - great conversation and really thoughtful treats (including pakora!)

Uber takes us home through the rain.  It was a fine day.

Just another spot of Bangalore traffic . . .

Saturday 26 May 2018

Every morning at OJ Plex commenced with an interesting breakfast – often Indian (idli (or dosa) and sambar was a favorite); sometimes prepared by Janu and Dharma, sometimes ordered in (carry-in prices were so reasonable). Janu made a delicious upma one of the first mornings.  On a few mornings we had eggs for a change of pace.  PJ did a good job keeping up with the laundry (getting the clothes dry was a challenge, however).

We were well taken care of (if not outright spoiled).

Breakfast was always accompanied by coffee – small cups – with generous amounts of milk and sugar; I have this memory of Janu or Dharma gliding up offering a fresh coffee just when we were ready for one.  Prior to this trip it was black-coffee-only for me, but I quickly became used to the Indian style (and it took about a week after our return for me to get reoriented to black coffee).  Spicy donuts.  This was a nice part of the day.  Sreedhar often would arrive during this time, often bringing supplies for us.   

Watching the previous night's game felt like looking back in time.

Also at OJ Plex – by the time we were eating breakfast, often an NBA playoff game (taking place the night before back in the US – it was like looking back in time) would be entering the fourth quarter – perfect timing for us to keep up with the games while not burning too much time on it.  The Indian broadcasts were fun to hear, also the Indian post-game.

Jenga received a lot of use.

Also at OJ Plex on a daily basis – Vihaan brought the energy.  PJ and he got along quite fine; among other things he showed fine aptitude with a coloring app on her iPad.  Jenga games – or just building things with the Jenga blocks.  His fire truck, and transformer/car.  Etc.

Arriving at the Metro station after our first auto rickshaw ride - fun.

This day was pretty lightly scheduled.  We took our first auto rickshaw trip – to the metro (quite new, in great condition, and apparently quite popular judging from our crowded car!) – then a short walk to some shops in a commercial area, I’ll call it MG Road area.  From there we walked through some interesting/nice areas, and had lunch at a place called Smokehouse Deli – western food, they did a very nice job.  En route we ran across the CSC local headquarters, in a neighborhood with various other Christian institutions (including a school Sreedhar had attended (St. George's, I believe)).  After lunch we visited a high-end mall and wandered there just a bit; then made our way back to OJ Plex.  Had a quiet hour or two; several of us napped a bit.

CSC building; Sreedhar's school; Metro scenes.

In the evening:  a lovely visit to Dharma’s aunt’s home – another amazing meal – these folks were pretty familiar with the US because of visits (one had been one of the first in the family to take a position in the US – at a university in the southeast) and a son currently practices medicine in Duluth.  Dharma had brought along wedding photos; they reciprocated with some pretty amazing wedding albums of their own.

This was a lovely home; three generations living together; per usual on
this trip - amazing food and hospitality.

Ajii somehow got herself over to this home and it was very fine to see her again.  And she brought along a group of family photos - a great experience going through those together.  Fun conversations all evening.  Somehow I'm not finding a full group photo so will post it later.  After:  Uber back to OJ Plex.

Reviewing Ajii's treasure trove of pictures; also checking out our host's amazing wedding album.

Sunday 27 May 2018

Breakfast at OJ Plex; then several of our group go to a local grocery store for some supplies (they were charged with bringing a dish to the day’s potluck gathering).  Which gathering commenced a bit before noon at a house not too far from OJ Plex (though our Uber driver became frustrated, we were passing through a neighborhood I believe was referred to as “Little Pakistan” with a slightly incorrect address).

Scenes from a Sunday gathering (four generations on left) 

This was quite an excellent Sunday gathering – it included relatives on Sreedhar’s side of the family – including his mother (ajii) and three sisters, and so many more - another very important group to meet and get to know.  Great turnout of entirely friendly folks.  Many with quite excellent command of English.  Four generations represented.  I much enjoyed the sounds of the day – constant multiple conversations being conducted in English or Kannada or both; children playing or occasionally crying a bit; cooking, food preparation, food service – just great.  It reminded me of the sounds of those 1960s gatherings up on the hill farm in St. Joe.

Just a great group of folks.

The food – delightful Indian dishes – our first time being served on a banana leaf – interesting, tasty stuff.  After:  one of Sreedhar’s sisters is assembling a betel leaf chaw for us – I still don’t know quite what was in the filling, or what effect if any this has – but we chewed away, found the taste quite pleasant, this was all very relaxing.  Coffee/chai is served later; also snacks; on it goes!

An amazing feast.  With many more treats to follow.

In addition to all the talking:  we played games. A lot.  We introduced “Old Maid” to the group – using two decks of cards – this was entertaining as always, works well with large groups, those moments among the finalists are always funny.

Sreedhar and his sister (who is the expert at putting together our betel-leaf-chew, among other talents).

Next:  they have a traditional game where two types of beans are mixed into a large pot of rice grains – each player has 30 seconds to pick as many of the designated bean type out of the rice as possible – no rice-mess allowed! – this moves fast and was quite fun (plus one can imagine this being played in traditional villages going way back – fun, and nothing to purchase!).

Upper left:  Janu is a blur in her 30-second stint; upper right:  running a Housie game;
in bottom photos, the Housie players are concentrating so very hard . . . 

Perhaps not our fastest bean-picker - but certainly our cutest:

via GIPHY

Then everyone played “Housie” – a variant of bingo – this was very fun, there was a 10 rupee buy-in so everyone had something at stake; they dream up various winning combinations and betting patterns – the time flew by, the laughing and jabbering never faltered.

Now it’s getting late; many had work the next day and needed to depart; they do a great job of lining up the group, and various subgroups, for photos; our Uber is on its way.  But wait!  After seven-plus hours we are prevailed upon (and happily agree) to cancel our ride.  The Old Maid game moves out to the front yard for those who could stay; while Chris, our host and I “took a walk” to an Indian liquor store so that we could have a small beer tasting.  Our walk was an interesting experience in its own right – a long line of liquor purchasers, fortunately a short line for beer buyers.  Back to the house; of course another delicious round of food; we compare notes during our impromptu beer tasting and discuss all sorts of things, very pleasant.

A successful beer tasting to finish off a delightful day . . .

Things eventually do wrap up and our Uber arrives a little after 10p.

A fun day.

Monday 28 May 2018

Another relatively lightly scheduled day – the main goals were to visit some shopping areas and prepare for tomorrow’s road trip.  After breakfast and some doings at OJ Plex, we work our way toward lunch – at an Asian restaurant (Misu) – the place does a really nice job.

You can find anything in this shopping district.  So fun just to look around.

Then onto the shopping area – I’ll call it “Commercial Street” – this is where Dharma, Janu, Sreedhar did all of the shopping for wedding finery.  The area was entirely amazing – every kind of shop – crowded, narrow streets – so much to look at!  (That includes the shoppers, shopkeepers, traffic, hangers-on – as well as the shops themselves.)  Chris & Dharma were looking for some accent pillows and were quite successful.  Some clothes-shopping also took place.  I didn’t get at all tired of just looking around.

Pillow-cover-shopping is the main event, but chess moves run alongside.

Chris and I had a fine mango lassi; Sreedhar bought a tasty ear of roasted corn for Vihaan.  Encountered a few persistent beggars (our first of the trip).

PJ did a nice job of capturing some of the street scenes!

At day’s end we had some challenges arranging an Uber so ended up with a more adventurous approach:  jumped into auto rickshaws to the (very crowded) metro, then a short Uber ride from the metro station – worked fine.  Dharma and Sreedhar then were spending a ton of time and effort finding a car and driver for our multi-day road trip starting tomorrow morning – lots of work on their part but, as we shall see, it turned out beautifully.

Also back at OJ Plex, Chris and I had some tea; there was a 5 Crowns game and some chatting.

Night settles in at OJ Plex as we go to bed in preparation for tomorrow's road trip! Traffic
sounds (including the horn-honking conversation) did largely abate overnight
though occasionally the street dogs would start up - sometimes quite emphatically.  

Visiting southern India (first post of several)

Chris & Dharma with pal Vihaan (in front of snake-guarded temple, Bangalore)

Visiting Dharma’s family in India has been a priority ever since the time of C&D’s wedding.  PJ and I had such high expectations for the trip – and they were far exceeded in every respect. (Among other pleasant discoveries, we learned that we didn’t really know what to expect!)

Still working through photo sets now so am just including a few initial pix here; eventually I will be putting up multiple posts on this trip (yes it was utterly unforgettable - but I want to remember as many details as possible!)  In terms of written description - for now, just below is a summary taken from an email sent to EMG and my siblings/siblings in law –

Sreedhar and Dharma wander the grounds of the fantastic Mysore Palace on a gorgeous evening.

Three-acre banyan tree (first selfie)

From:  Paul Gales
Subject: trip

Hi everybody –

[Here's an interruption on a different topic; read on if interested in a few observations from our India visit . . .  Patricia and I arrived in Bangalore 24 May and returned to Phoenix 5 June; Chris and Dharma (cc'd on this) were with us in India and then they spent an extra week, mostly in Bangkok.]

Bottom line:  we can’t imagine how our time in India could have been finer.  I’ve not yet found an adequate way to describe the mixture of south India exotica (MONKEYS (which are endlessly entertaining), coconuts, wandering cows, Bangalore traffic/nonstop mayhem, bullock carts ON THE HIGHWAY, auto rickshaws everywhere, markets and vendor stalls with fantastic merchandise, banyan trees (a single tree, full of monkeys of course, covered THREE ACRES), we are served delicious meals on a BIG BANANA LEAF and became pretty adept at eating with our fingers, etc., etc.!!); multiple-fine family encounters (Dharma’s extended family is entirely amazing, the hospitality traditions (including lovely nods to the married couple and the parents-of-the-couple) are deeply warm and welcoming; a family-and-religion emphasis that is quite familiar; lots of family time during this trip (as we had requested - and will request on future visits!) but also some wonderful tourist site visits; a road trip down to Mysore, where MAHARAJAS ran things and the palace still amazes; TEMPLES (the ones we saw are simply unbelievable – and guarded by carved SNAKES); the utter absence of whites pretty much everywhere we went (we – as curiosities – were asked to pose for selfies with locals far more often than we saw non-Indians); a setting where one constantly seems to feel the reassuring-weight of thousands of years of tradition and development; some of the family members still live in a VILLAGE with a FARM (but not like Iowa:  coconuts, bananas, sugar cane, mango, papaya, teak trees, sandalwood trees, a bit of corn, plus I saw a rice paddy!); we absolutely loved ALL of the food and miss it quite a bit.  And so much, much more– just wow, I guess.

PJ wandering Chamundi Hills (as is a random cow - a not-unusual sight).

And a bonus – no jet lag (we slept some on the plane flights, just stayed up through whatever day we landed and woke up fine, allowing minor dozing on the metro or wherever on the first couple days if a touch of fatigue set in; and no stomach ailments (about which we had been warned quite often) – we felt fantastic throughout. 

Any of you would have so enjoyed – we kept thinking EMG would have felt really comfortable in this setting.

Sreedhar and Janu (your friends, now family, from the November wedding - also cc'd here) and Dharma planned things perfectly and took care of us every step of the way - nonstop thoughtfulness - and we had a ton of fun with six-year-old Vihaan (Janu's so-energetic son, you probably saw photos of him back in November). 

We felt very fortunate, it was rather overwhelming. 

Paul M. Gales

Taken at maternal grandfather's growing-up
home - in the village - where we were treated so well.

talking

Grandson appears to observe pretty much everything.  And now - starting with conversations with his parents - he's progressed to wanting to discuss what he's observed.  In detail. 

Sure his technique could benefit from a bit more refinement, but this is quite an excellent start.  At least I can't stop watching this.  (Captured by PJ 15 May 2018.)

little boy's outfit

L-R Paul Sr., Paul Jr., Romie

From: Paul Gales
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2018 5:23 PM
To: Ernest Gales; Roman & Joy Gales
Cc: Patricia Gales; Paul Gales; Nedda Reghabi Gales
Subject: just a little boy's outfit

Hi everybody –

Happy Mother’s Day to Joy!

We were over at Paul Jr/Nedda house today to honor Patricia and Nedda (her first mother’s day).  Before we got there,  Paul Jr. and Nedda were taking “five-month-old” photos of Latest Romie.  Guess what – they dressed him in an outfit that Original Romie had given me (though we are guessing that Joy may actually may have done the shopping?)

I like to think about what happened here over the years:

   • Original Romie and/or Joy buy the outfit for me in 1956

   • Ernie and Helen take me for my studio picture in the outfit (no mere snapshot!)

   • Helen holds onto the outfit for 31 years, keeps it in good condition, gives it to Patricia and me

   • Patricia and I photograph Paul Jr. in it

   • Patricia holds onto the outfit for 31 years (coincidental time period), keeps it in good condition, gives it to Paul Jr. and Nedda

   • Latest Romie wears the outfit for his photo in 2018

   • Now it’s up to Nedda to keep the outfit in good condition for whatever happens next!

Photos below.

Pleasant thoughts about each of you today, thanks as always for being in our lives.  We feel very lucky.

Paul & Patricia

Same three fellows, 13 May 2018

Phantom Ranch 2018

[placeholder/more to come]

Well, we did it again - a group-of-20 had an amazing time hiking down to Phantom Ranch on 5 May for a two-night stay (preceding night at South Rim with our usual sundown reception).  Prior trips:  1997, 2004, 2007, 2014.  As always: countless fine memories.  This was a particularly good group.  Will post more later.

19 of 20 hikers - immediately prior to heading up the Bright Angel Trail (5:49a 7 May). 
(Just missing our photographer, Nicole.) (With photo of our fax-savant, Patrick S.)

OK, this time all 20.

How it looked on the way down South Kaibab; some of our
group are those tiny figures in center.

yellow

Springtime in the desert.  Here are backyard palo verdes in bloom, complete with extensive blossom-drop.  Yellow above, yellow below, backlighting.

Sunday 22 April 2018

newly-minted citizens of Luxembourg

Not sure who's primarily responsible - but via several of my sisters, we are following up on an opportunity to acquire dual citizenship status in Luxembourg.  They have managed their way through the various details involved in establishing a link to an ancestor resident in Luxembourg prior to the prescribed 19th century date.  We (so far me, Nicole, Patrick) are piggybacking onto their efforts.

It's official!

One of the requirements:  a visit to Luxembourg.  EMG, Barb, Carol and Therese completed this requirement in April 2018.  Text messages from Europe indicate, and subsequent phone calls confirm, that this was a pretty wonderful trip.  Sounded like they encountered the finest hospitality wherever they turned (no surprise there).

Celebratory meal with Ruiz/Lanners group . . . 

. . . dining with Mich Lanners.

Anyway, that group of four is pretty well finished with the process.  Our group is arcing toward a 2019 visit. Perhaps an EU passport will follow?

A shame that Mom and Claude Lanners weren't there to join in.

Only one way to properly celebrate the
occasion - select the finest Gales wine.