Hiking down to Phantom Ranch (2 of 4)

[Reminder: as always, click on a photo to enlarge it.]

Beautiful morning at the South Rim, and we were up bright and early. Overnight low was in upper 30s but it didn't feel cold.

Had a quick breakfast at Yavapai Lodge (some folks opted for leftover Einstein's bagels).

Our aim was to get to the shuttle bus by 7:15, and we actually did make the 7:45 bus. A 20-person group involves some details, but we were off to a smooth start.

One note of concern was that Dave Kollar seemed to be huffing and puffing a bit just walking to the shuttle at 7000 feet elevation. (We later learned - as he put on a finishing kick at the top of the Bright Angel Trail - that he must have been sandbagging us.)

Then we collectively figured out how to use our hiking poles, and how to balance the packs (which weren't that heavy thanks to the mule service). Mike Aron was quite helpful to my sister. We found some scruffy hiker to take a group photo at the top of the trail (entire group except Joel and Cami, who drove up from Flagstaff and caught up with us on the trail) (we never did get a photo with all 20).

Then -- down the South Kaibab Trail we go.

This trail is sensational. It was built to take advantage of the ridge lines, and the views are consistently spectacular; constantly changing as we work our way down.

Multiple neat points along the way, including in particular the Cedar Ridge general area (where several of these photos were taken, including Patricia's artsy shot of a tree perched in front of a great view). I particularly like the rapid drop-off and switchbacks following the Skeleton Point area.

I'm not going to try to describe the hike or views in detail, this is something that is best experienced first-hand. The areas mentioned in the preceding paragraph are great. It's also fun as you start seeing (and eventually, hearing) the Colorado River below. There is a somewhat flatter area that I believe is called the "Tonto Platform" - at least the Tonto Trail intersects here. Then a moonscape that looks like an alien planet (see the long shot Nicole took of some of our hikers, I really like the photo). After that is the "Tip-off" - a rapid descent to the "Black Bridge" across the Colorado River.

If you sit back and think about it -- how neat is it to walk down to the storied Colorado River, almost 5000 feet beneath the South Rim? This is good if not slightly surreal.

Dave K, Cecilia and I were pretty much at the back of the pack. We took our time, looked around, took photos, etc. At a pace I really enjoy.

Weather was great at the outset, though it looked like a shower was possible. As we descended the trail and the day wore on, the heat rose pretty dramatically; I believe it hit about 100 degrees at the bottom. Which felt a bit warm.

The three of us finally reached Phantom Ranch around 2p, just as a search and rescue team (Robert Backie, Chris and Patrick) was coming to check for our bodies. Everyone else had been at the Ranch for some time.

We had the good fortune to be assigned Cabin 9 again (same as our 2004 hike) - close to the canteen, a great location right alongside Bright Angel Creek. Yes, a shower felt wonderful.

Many of us attended the 4:00 ranger presentation - basically he was doing Q&A about Phantom Ranch and the Grand Canyon. Some of it was interesting. But then there was this guy who kept challenging the ranger's statements, particularly his assertion that mountain lions can be found in the Canyon.

Steak dinner at 5p (see photo in the canteen). This is a high value meal: NY strip steak, baked potato, corn bread, a couple kinds of vegetables, salad. Also the chocolate cake that we have been told is served at every Phantom Ranch meal for decades. All delivered on the back of a smelly mule. After the day's activities, this all tasted just right.

Our next stop was Bright Angel Creek (pronounced "crick" by some on this trip), where we soaked our feet in the cold water while soaking up the excellent views upstream and downstream. Neat. Right behind our cabin. Gorgeous evening weather, gorgeous views - and the cold soak felt pretty excellent. Check out the short video (you'll probably need to turn up the volume to hear the creek sounds).

We later walked down to the amphitheater for the 7:30 ranger presentation - this one on geology. The presenter was pretty hyperactive but did a good job with a topic of limited interest. There even was a song by one of the canteen employees about "plate tectonics.'



More cards and fun in the canteen (capped by a dramatic ending to the Hearts game) pretty much until 10p closing. Sat outside the canteen and talked a bit with Dave K. and Mike A. while the breeze rustled the cottonwoods. A unique place to be.