Twenty hikers spent two nights at Phantom Ranch (after a night-before stayover at Bright Angel Lodge on South Rim). Preceded, and followed, by some fun times in Phoenix.
It's been seven years since our last Phantom Ranch adventure (recounted here). (Among other delaying factors, worldwide competition for large-group reservations is a challenge (one example recounted here).)
I really don't know how the 2014 experience could have been nicer. Summary of events is included in the email reproduced below.
Among other delightful aspects of the 2014 trip: a trove of photos, far better than what we've come back with on our prior hikes. I will separately post a few.
Nope, can't wait for the next time.
______________________________
From: Paul Gales
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2014 9:40 AM
Subject: RE: phantom ranch 2014 - email #6
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2014 9:40 AM
Subject: RE: phantom ranch 2014 - email #6
[Where were we last week at this time? Even we
tail-enders were probably already leaving Indian Gardens by now?]
***
Having stayed at Phantom Ranch in ’97, ’04, ’07, I’ve actually
given a fair amount of thought in recent years to teeing up a group outing to a
place other than PR – after all, lots of other fine destinations are
available. But every time I mull this over, I keep coming back to the
uniqueness of the entire Grand Canyon/Phantom Ranch proposition – reinforced
for me again last week. I do think the general PR differentiators are
worth recalling before memories further fade:
·
prosaic but relevant: it’s drivable from Phoenix and overall
reasonably priced
·
the opportunity to spend time at the Rim, including a
night-before reception-at-the-Rim – and how nice is that evening? What a
spot this year; and PJ, CCG and team did a particularly great job with
drinks/snacks. A closely-related-but-completely-different experience
compared to PR itself.
·
the basic up/down hikes are two entirely separate experiences,
each entirely wonderful, entirely world-class hikes
o
with enough challenge to be interesting, but not so much as to be
daunting
o
and mules(!) to haul our stuff
·
separated by two days of cabin life – a bit rustic, yes;
difficult or annoying, generally no; with
o
prepared meals, hot showers, clean sheets (though not
necessarily on arrival at cabin 15)
o
among other menu gems: chocolate cake every dinner since
PR opened, and brightly-colored canned peaches at every breakfast!
o
a bar, or “canteen,” that functions like a living room in off
hours – drinks, snacks, games, total freedom to move around
·
cut off from the world – no tour bus folk, no national park
visitor hordes, no cell phone or TV; facilitates a focus on nature and one
another in a way that cannot, and does not, happen otherwise. (Just
compare the feeling you experience as you start encountering lots o’ folks when
rising past 1.5 Mile House on the up-hike.)
·
complete flex on our “rest” day to do more outdoor stuff, relax,
whatever
·
ranger talks invariably yield a nugget or three
·
4500 feet below the rim – yup, that’s a pretty unique view/vantage
point
·
at Mary Colter’s Phantom Ranch!
·
etc., etc.
Not sure if anything quite like this exists elsewhere? I
guess time will tell if we can identify a suitable alternative. Whatever
other destination we might add, I’m sure I’d be perfectly happy returning
semi-regularly to PR no matter what.
Beyond the general GC/PR factors: each trip yields up its
own moments; here are a few that I want to remember from last week:
·
seems like there’s somebody like “Gustav” (the enthusiastic
Catalan at our first breakfast) on staff at the canteen every trip – ok,
maybe he was a bit over the top, but I think it’s more accurate to say that he
really “gets it” in terms of the unique experience for PR’s overnight guests –
anyone blasé about this is just missing out
·
illicit dam building in Bright Angel Creek; licit beer
can-pyramid building in the canteen
·
mucho Sequence battles royale in the canteen
·
soaking one’s feet in Bright Angel Creek on a hot day; or in the
glorious Colorado River itself
·
I learned after the fact that some of our crew saw – and
photographed – a couple bighorn sheep at top of South Kaibab trail.
Pretty rare; entirely neat; I’m actually kind of jealous that I missed
this.
·
some of us saw a raptor abduct a squirrel off a high canyon
wall, pretty quickly drop the little struggler some 20-30 feet down into Bright
Angel Creek, and swoop to a landing spot back up on the canyon wall – all this
played out in the course of a few seconds against a perfectly framed backdrop
of steep-tight dark cliffs, brilliant sunlight, clear-flowing water – just an
amazing visual
·
Ribbon Falls – our first visit after all these years – we
learned that this is so fine that we need to better plan how to take advantage
of it
·
some of us did a bit of late-night star-gazing while reposed on
benches down at the amphitheater – one of my favorite hours of a trip that had
many
·
PJ’s cobbler-work on NOC’s splitting shoes
·
the bemused(?) looks on folks’ faces as I went room-to-room at
Thunderbird Lodge on Friday night explaining why our South Kaibab hike-down
departure time was going to be delayed a bit; the good fortune to find
reasonably good replacement hiking shoes reasonably early on Saturday morning
·
surviving the trudge along Bright Angel Creek as the last
segment of our down-hike on a 98-degree Saturday afternoon; sweltering through
the “Box” on Sunday; enjoying a cool-weather up-hike on Monday
·
those marvelous Kolb Brothers – their adventures initially recounted
by via ranger-talk, then skillfully recycled as up-hike entertainment
·
sack-lunch delights (especially that ineffable sausage (accessed
for some of us via Nick’s trail-found cutting-rock))
A few things I learned:
·
how great was it to be unplugged for a few days? I thought
I was doing a pretty good job of managing/limiting my exposure to
political/policy news and the like – but clearly need to cut back
further. Way further.
·
how great was it to have a couple birders around (if that’s the
word)? I’m thinking that the time I subtract from following policy
debates should go to looking at birds – if you start paying even a little
attention to these critters, it ends up being a pretty amazing extension of
one’s nature observations.
·
how great to have several actual photographers along on this
trip? Can’t wait to see the results.
And we had a series of fine non-GC/PR adventures (with
participation varying based on who was here in Phoenix at the time):
·
Squaw Peak limber-up hikes (Wednesday and Thursday)
·
lunch on Ohso Brewery patio (Thursday)
·
dinner at 11419 featuring Fuego Bistro entrees (Thursday)
·
lunch in downtown Flagstaff at Criollo Latin Kitchen (Friday)
·
NOC’s birthday celebration at PJr/Nedda’s place (Monday)
·
breakfast/recap session at 11419 (Tuesday)
·
pizza lunch downtown at “nationally-renowned” Pizzeria Bianco
(Tuesday)
·
dinner, lobby photos, and laughs – with the final hangers-on at
Gallo Blanco (Tuesday)
***
So all of this was quite wonderful.
But we all also observe that the success of the project depends
far more than anything else upon the people comprising the group – and setting
aside a couple much-regretted absences, I just don’t know that we can ever put
together a group quite this fine? Everything went so smoothly (including
previously-daunting tasks such as duffel-coordination). Consistent
patience, good humor, helpfulness, interesting conversation, etc., etc.
Delightful. Moving in groups-of-20 is definitely not always this
consistently easy and fun.
PJ and I had high expectations for this group, and they were
exceeded, easily. We very much appreciated having each and every one of
you along.
And like always, I’m more than a little sorry when it’s over.
Paul & Patricia
p.s #1: It is my sad duty to report a “tragedy at the mule
barn” – my clip-camera was lost in the parking lot there while we were fussing
around waiting for duffels to arrive (at least that’s the last time I recall
seeing it). So we shall never know whether this
not-quite-ready-for-prime-time technology would have yielded anything
interesting. (And I think I shall not replace it.)
p.s. #2: for the record, our hiking group included
travelers from 10 states (AZ, VA, CA, AK, MN, MA, PA, MD, NJ, OH).
Paul M. Gales
From: Paul Gales
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2014 3:18 PM
Subject: RE: phantom ranch 2014 - email #5
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2014 3:18 PM
Subject: RE: phantom ranch 2014 - email #5
Final thoughts:
- Thursday dinner planning here
at 11419 is shaping up nicely, and most everyone that’s made it to Phoenix
by then will be here. Entrees being catered from Fuego Bistro – the
guys that did such a great job with the food at Nicole-POC wedding back in
2011. Appetizers, salads, dessert, etc. being taken care of by the
usual local pros. No fixed start time as we figure folks will be drifting
in throughout the day. Will set out the entrees perhaps 7p or so,
but that stuff will be good for hours on the warmers.
- Bad news: Nedda had to
drop out. But that did open a spot for the highly esteemed Jon
Blaha! (Say hi to Jon.)
- Bring cameras; take lots of
photos; and somebody figure out which photo-sharing site to use.
Please share!
- Wearable tech #1: anyone
going to wear a fitbit (or similar)? I want to know how many steps
this requires.
- Wearable tech #2: I’ll be
wearing the Narrative Clip (http://getnarrative.com/)
– hopefully no one is uncomfortable around this kind of thing these days,
and now you’ve been warned. (Have been testing it out for a couple
weeks now with consistently lousy results, but I’m not giving up.
Yet.)
- The weather forecast is really
quite good. Definitely trending to the high side for this time of
year, but should be no issues with precipitation – which is the one factor
that can really damage the experience. Those of you who have been up
on Colorado Plateau know it’s typically pretty windy up there, so I am
expecting a lot of that throughout the trip. I’ll take a jacket for
Friday night/Sat morning on South Rim, and then leave it in the car . . .
space permitting, will send a separate light jacket down on the mule train
since it likely will feel a touch cool down at Phantom Ranch at night (at
least to we Phoenix folk). Not planning to carry a jacket in my
backpack even though it might feel a bit cool at the very start of the
down-hike. All in all – given that we’re dealing with three
overnights across about 5000 feet of elevation change – the forecast is
looking about as good as possible, I’m very grateful for that.
- Reminder that technically we’re
supposed to be bringing 10 male and 10 female hikers on this trip.
Likelihood of enforcement problems on this issue seems extremely
low. Still, if you’re a guy-hiker named “Patrick” or “Christopher” –
I listed you with the females under a shortened version of your name in my
submission to the vendor. You may wish to dress accordingly just in
case.
- The only recent revelation for
me as to packing – the importance of socks! I tried the REI brand of
“light” hiking socks instead of my usual, and they were noticeably thinner
– such that I all but gave myself blisters heading down Squaw Peak the
other day. Too much room for the foot to move around inside the
shoe. This reminded me that the blister problem is primarily on the
down-hike. Anyone in doubt whether they have the right shoes-socks
combination probably should stick a backup pair of socks – of a different
thickness – in their pack on the down-hike.
- We’re closing in on having
sufficient donkey-duffel bags. We definitely want those bags locked
and loaded before we leave Phoenix on Friday. Will have a staging
area in our living room for this – please be prepared with your
donkey-stuff – but not too much of it, in view of space limitations.
(Can somebody local bring a bathroom scale to weigh these bags? We
don’t have one.)
- We’ll sort out Friday departure
times, cars, etc. once everyone’s here. If anyone has a schedule
conflict preventing Friday morning departure, it would be helpful to know
that right away, however.
We’re looking forward to seeing everyone soon.
Paul M. Gales






















